Fethiye is 135 kilometers (84 miles) southwest of Marmaris in Mugla province, and has an outstanding and busy marina. The ancient name of the city is Telmessos where you can see a fortress on the hill overlooking the city which was built by Knights of Rhodes. Fethiye is known for its rock tombs carved into the faces of the cliffs by the Lycians. These are elaborately carved and are remarkable. One of them is the tomb of Amnytas dating from the 4th century BC built in Doric architectural style and is worth well visiting. Other historical places in the city are several sarcopaghi, theater and the Fethiye tower.
The Beach and the Sovalye Island are perfect destinations for those who like to enjoy the most beautiful sea. Belcegiz Bay is also good for such a visit and provides natural mountain scenery. The guest houses (pansiyon) here will give you all the basic comfort you expect. The bay forms the dreamlike Belcegiz - Ölüdeniz (Blue Lagoon) known as "a paradise that God granted to Earth", a very fine place with 3 km of natural beach and crystal blue waters in enchanting surroundings. For camping, Belcegiz Beach is ideal, and for picnicking try the Kidiril Park, for sightseeing the Gemiler Islands with their Byzantine ruins among the pine trees are recommended. At Koturumsu, a heaven-like beauty awaits you, where you may reach only by boats. There are waterfalls flowing across valleys where thousands of butterflies, exhibiting tremendous shades of colors, fly amongst the pine forest bordering of the lovely beach. Some of the other natural attractions are Katranci Bay, Gunluk (Kusuk Kargi) Bay, Oyuktepe, and Göcek with its harbor and marina. Lately, paragliding from Baba mountain became one of the most popular sports and it gives magnificent views for people flying over this great beach lagoon.
Around Fethiye, there are important ancient cities of the Lycians. To the southeast of Fethiye lies Xanthos at Kinik village, an important capital of Lycians. Its setting is naturally adorned while Letoon, by Kumluova village and nearby Xanthos, is also interesting. Letoon was a cult center during the Lycian period and remains of temples dedicated to Leto, Artemis and Apollo can be seen. Patara by Ovagelmis, Pinara by Minare, Tlos by Doger, Cadianda by Yesil Üzümlü, Sidyma by Dodurga, Karmilassos by Kaya, Pydnai by Kavadere, Araxa by Ören, Lydoe by Kapidag, Lissa and Arsada by Kayadibi, and Daedela by Inlice are other significant sites to visit in the environs of Fethiye. There are also many camping and picnicking facilities around the town.
The town dates back to Lycian times when it was known as Telmessos. Later known as Anastasiopolis in Byzantine times, then Megri and finally Fethiye this century after Fethi Bey, a local pilot and war hero. He was the first pilot in Turkey and he died when his plane crashed. Pilot Fethi bey statue is at Fethi Bey park near the big pier in front of the Telmessos theatre. If you watch the fisherman in front of Fethi Bey park you can see the Caretta Caretta swimming around the boats between 9-10 am. Despite being a popular English package tourist centre, Fethiye makes a good base to visit the surrounding sites and beaches.
In the town itself is the recently excavated amphitheatre next to the marina and the impressive Lycian rock tombs (Amyntas Tomb) which are floodlit at night. For more culture, visit the town small museum which contains some interesting exhibits from nearby archeological sights. There are some impressive Turkish Baths to experience. There are 4 HAMAM - one in the old town (Traditional Old Turkish Bath), one by the otogar which will take a group booking (Kaya Hamami) and 2 in hotels (Ata Park & Letoonia). It is a great idea to go for a nice relaxing afternoon.
The town has an excellent Tuesday Market. This is the best place to buy all those cheap fake designer labels and also good for souvenirs, cheap CDs and endless food/fresh fruit sellers. Best just to go for the experience - hundreds of Turkish village folk descend on Fethiye for market day to buy and sell their goods. Fethiye is the third best area in Turkey for to learn scuba and expert diving. There are several companies operating certificate and daily courses. (Divers Delight and European Dive Centre). The nearest beach in Fethiye is Calis Beach, which can be reached by a short dolmus, bus or boat trip. It is not a particularly good beach, it does get full of package tourists in high season, but it is convenient. For a more secluded, peaceful swim, head to one of the secluded bays on the outskirts of the town, Katranci Bay, Günlüklü(Kargi), Aksaz and Boncuklu. These are popular with locals and can be reached by local dolmus.
TWELVE ISLANDS
The Twelve Islands (oniki adalar) is a area of islands between Fethiye and Gocek. The only way to enjoy them is to cruise in a Turkish gulet or take a tourist daily boat trip. Gulet cruises provide access to the tourist-free secluded bays where you can snorkel, swim, climb the cliffs or just relax. The most interesting islands and mainland bays include Merdivenli Step Ladder bay which has an ancient cave cut into the side of the rock. Afrodit koyu (Cleopatra Bath) is an ancient ruined bath where Cleopatra supposedly bathed when she was travelling en route from Egypt to Rome. Bedri Rahmi bay was named after the Turkish artist Bedri Rahmi Eyüboğlu. He visited the island several times and painted a fish eye picture on the rock. Domuz Adasi (Pig Island) was so named because of the pigs that swam there. Tersane Adasi Shipyard Island has ruins of an ancient shipyard. Göcek Adasi is opposite the small sleepy mainland village of Gocek. It is a small, pretty marina town that retains its old Turkish charm with interesting unusual souvenir shops, excellent restaurants, cocktail bars and enough supermarkets to supply all the yachts visiting the marinas. Göcek has many pansiyons and is connected to Fethiye and Dalaman by frequent buses.
ÖLÜDENİZ
This is the famous beach and blue lagoon that features on every travel poster of Turkey. The long, sandy beach is really spectacular and it shelters the lagoon from the sea. By the lagoon there is a national park - it is an excellent place to swim. Be warned though, in summer, the main stretch of beach is full of sun loungers, umbrellas and hundreds of English package tourists. Opposite the dolmus stop there are lots of daily trip boats waiting to hassle you! Escape them at the swimming Tonoz pool bar. For the price of a drink or a snack (even a cola) you can pass the afternoon spread-eagled on a sunlounger plunging when the mood takes you! It is open till midnight with poolside cocktails and raves! Another great bar is the legendary Buzz Bar - with cocktail specials (try the ice-cream cocktails). But be warned - if you are on a tight budget, the tourist restaurants and grocery stores can be a bit expensive because they are geared towards package tourists. Eat at the pansiyon/hostel to save money.
PRAGLIDING FROM BABA MOUNTAIN TO OLUDENIZ BEACH
Paragliding in Ölüdeniz is the best spot for paragliding in Turkey. For a reasonable price you will be whisked off in a jeep for an hour up to the summit of Babadag mountain (1975m). The tandem paragliding will take approximately half an hour back down to the beach (don't forget your camera)! Check out the prices first, but remember cheapest is not always best - go with a reputable company that follows all safety precautions - Focus, Sky sports, Pink Team (book from Fethiye and they can pick you up). Other waterspout options include parascending (from boats on the beach) and pedals (for hire on the lagoon). Around Ölüdeniz The daily boat trips will take you cruising around the nearby bays including Soguksu (Cold Spring Bay),
GEMILER ISLAND (ST. NICHOLAS ISLAND)
Gemiler (St Nicholas Island) which has an ancient ruined city on the top of the hill. Here you can walk along the old cobbled market streets it is an excellent setting to watch the sunset with a drink or two! The church is dedicated to St Nicholas who was born at Patara, and is immortalised forever as Noel Baba Santa Claus. But some archaeology writers believe him to born at Gemiler island.
KAYA KOY (KAYA GHOST TOWN)
Kaya Köyü (Kaya ghost town) is a deserted ghost town. Until 1923 it was known as Levissi when it was built by and inhabited by Christian Greek Orthodox. They left as a result of the population exchange when all Christian Greeks were forced to move to Greece. The Macedonian Muslims that were sent to Kaya, believed that its previous inhabitants had left a curse on the hillside village and instead built their houses on the surrounding flat land. Now the hillside is still covered with the ghostly ruins of 1500 cottages. There are three churches worth looking at - the Panayia Piryiotissa basilica, the main church, still has murals, mosaic floors and marble altar screens. In the south-west corner of the church precinct is the charnel house piled high with human leg bones - the departing Greeks took the exhumed skulls of their ancestors away with them. Best time to go is late afternoon when it starts to get cooler, and the mass tourists have left - take some drinks and watch the sunset from the top of the hill - it is an eerie haunting feeling as the sun begins to set. There is a good restaurant next to the dolmus stop complete with bar-b-q and swimming pool for customers. Dolmuses run direct from Fethiye, or change at Hisaronu (the village before Ölüdeniz). If you are feeling energetic, you can walk along the ancient road that leads from behind the tombs in Fethiye, direct to Kaya (7 km). Or walk from Ölüdeniz, a 3 hour trek along the mountainous coastline (although it makes more sense to walk down from Kaya to Ölüdeniz).
BUTTERFLY VALLEY (KELEBEKLER VADİSİ)
KELEBEK (BUTTERFLY VALLEY)
This valley is named after the hundreds of Jersey Tiger Moths that live in the limestone canyon every summer. From the beach you can climb up the stunning waterfalls of the national park. It is a tough climb, with only a rope ladder in places, so take care. But the waterfalls definitely make it all worthwhile, especially on a hot summers day. Continue climbing up to the village at the top if you want to stay in one of the pensions there, or back down to the restaurant on the beach which has wooden platforms to sleep on. Remember to check the times of the returning boats, and take some liquid supplies if you are planning to spend the night.
SAKLIKENT GORGE
SAKLIKENT GORGE
This is a spectacular 18 km. Gorge cut into the Akdaglar mountain. From the carpark, first you must walk along a wooden boardwalk towards the restaurant (built over the cascading water). If you are not tempted by the yummy pancakes (gozleme) or trout, you must wade across the river (you can rent plastic shoes if you are unprepared) and from this point, you begin your ascent up the gorge, clambering over the boulders. It is relatively easy at first, getting gradually steeper and harder. The gorge is totally shaded, so makes a good destination on a boiling hot day. Remember to dress appropriately - you will get wet, and take waterproof bags for your cameras.Back at the carpark, there are more restaurants over the bridge with camping if you want to stay overnight. From Fethiye, take the direct Saklikent dolmus (1 hour) from the dolmus otogar.
KALKAN
KALKAN
This former Greek village inhabited by Ottoman Greeks was formally known as Kalamaki. Now it is a pretty fishing village with narrow winding streets built on a hillside, overlooking the tiny bay. Although it is lined with tourist shops and is a popular upmarket package holiday destination, it still retains more of its original charm than its neighbouring towns. Ideal for a few quiet days, it does however lack a bit on budget accommodation and restaurants. There is a nice small beach right next to the harbour where you can pass the day sunbathing and swimming or if you get too bored, there are a number of daily boat trips around the nearby bays. It is an excellent area for snorkelling and swimming.
KAS
Another Greek populated town that was known as Andifli until 1923. It is new name Kas means eyebrow or something carved. Although a pretty town with a fishing boats and yachts in the harbour it is now quite touristic but there are no beaches in Kas itself. However it makes a good base to visit the nearby sites and coastal bays and there are many budget pensions and restaurants. The ruins of ancient Antiphellos are scattered all around Kas. Out of the town, 500m along Hastane Caddesi from the harbour mosque is the small but almost complete Hellenistic amphitheatre with 26 rows of seats still intact (now used occasionally for wrestling matches!) At the top of the hill, 100m away is a unique Doric tomb also very well preserved and in the town is the Lion tomb with 2 burial chambers. But if you are getting fed up of ancient tombs, Kas is considered the best place along the entire Turkish coastline for scuba diving as the sea here is the cleanest, the clearest and arguably has the best visibility and greatest variety of sea life. There are a number of dive operators in the area offering full day, half day trips and certificate courses visiting tunnels, caves and even a World War II bomber wreck.If you are not feeling so adventurous, it is an ideal place to take boat trips to visit either Patara, Kekova or the Greek island of Kastellorizo (Meis) (daytrip only). You can take a direct bus from Fethiye to Kas which will take around 3. hours.
OLYMPOS
OLYMPOS
This was yet another ancient Lycian city, presumably taking its name from Mount Olympos, thought to be present day Tahtali Dag, 16 km to the north - one of over 20 mountains with the name Olympos in the classical world. It first appeared in history in 2nd century BC when it was striking its own coins in the manner of Lycians, although early history is shrouded in mystery. The principal deity of Olympos was Hephaestos (Vulcan to the Romans) who was God of fire and blacksmiths. Ruins of the temple dedicated to him can be found near the Chimera, he was considered to be a native of this area. The city went into decline around 1st century BC, but improved with the Romans only to suffer pirate attacks in 3rd century. After a middle age spell of Venetians, Genoese and Rhodians who left fortresses along the coast, the city was abandoned by 15th century. The area is now a major destination with many treehouses - simple wooden platforms and bungalows to stay in.
The walk from the treehouses will take you eventually to the beautiful beach, walking parallel to the banks of the old stream. The main ruins line the banks of this stream, scattered admidst the thick undergrowth and include extensive Byzantine Genoese fortifications overlooking the beach from each creek bank. There are 2 harbour tombs, a quay wall, an arcaded warehouse and walls of a Byzantine church. In the river itself is a well preserved pillar from a vanished bridge. There is also a theatre, a Byzantine villa with mosaic floors and a mausoleum-style tomb. Due to its position though, Olympos has avoided the general package mass, so there are no clear paths, and the ruins are difficult to spot but this all adds to its charm, retaining all the character of an undiscovered ruin.
North of Olympos, in the foothills of Tahtali Dag is the eternal flame of the Chimaera. It is a cluster of spontaneous and inextinguishable flames out of cracks in the bare rocky hillside of Mount Olympos. It is not known what causes the blazing phenomenon of gas seeping from the earth but it is known that the fire has been burning since antiquity and inspired the local worship of Hephaistos (Vulcan). In ancient times, they were much more vigorous, and could easily be seen at night by sailors. The Chimaera is the name for the fire breathing monster with lion head and forelegs, a goat rear and a snake for a tail (which has been used for the logo of the Turkish filling station Petrol Ofisi).
KÖYCEĞİZ
KOYCEGIZ
This is a small pretty town on the northern edge of KÖYCEGIZ lake. Apart from the lake, an excellent pension and a handful of restaurants, there is little else in this sleepy town. But there is however plenty to do. If strolling along the lakeshore, or reading in one of the shady tea gardens sounds too dull and boring, you can take the pension bicycles for an outing. A 7 km trip north (about 40 mins.) and a short hike will take you to the waterfall (you can alternatively take the dolmus). The waterfall is an excellent place to cool down after the ride. Great jumping possibilities for those daredevils! If that sounds too energetic, take one of the daily boat excursions.
DALYAN
ancient ruins of Kaunos
From the boat you can see the ancient ruins of Caunos set high on a cliff overlooking Dalyan village. Caunos which dates back to 9th century BC became an important city and the ruins include tombs, parts of an acropolis and other structures (baths, a basilica, defensive walls). The people of Caunos were said to be famous for their yellow skin and eyes as a result of malaria. Between May and September, if you are lucky, you might spot a loggerhead turtle (caretta caretta) on Iztuzu beach, an excellent beach for swimming. The turtles use the beach as a nesting site laying their eggs (up to 120) at night in the sand. At the thermal baths (Sultanate Kaplicalari) the hot mineral waters are rich in calcium, sulphur, iron, nitrates, potassium and other mineral salts and are said to be good for skin complaints.
MUD BATH
mud baths
Or get a mud body pack at the mud baths. They are claimed to increase male potency and cure rheumatism and gynecological problems. A short taxi ride from Köycegiz and you can visit Beyobasi village where there are 2 superb wooden platform restaurants built over the river. Feast yourself on trout or roasted lamb. The Lycians were an independent-minded race of people believed to be of Cretan origin. They settled and defended the wide peninsula between present-day Fethiye and Antalya from around 1400 BC. They had their own unique language, still to be seen on inscriptions and still not yet fully understood, but the most remarkable feature that they left behind are the uniquely styled rock tombs that can be found all around the area.
TLOS
This is one of the most Ancient Lycian cities situated high on a rocky hill which gives awesome views of the Xanthos valley. The site itself consists of confusing ruins. Of the rock tombs, the Tomb of Bellerophon is the best of the graves (northern base of the hill). It is so named from the carving on the left wall of the porch of Bellerophon riding the winged horse Pegasus. Other ruins include the Agora (market place) and market hall, the baths and across the road, a stunning second century BC theatre with 34 rows of seats still remaining. Trout is the most popular dish at the nearby restaurants, or carry on a further 2 km to the Yaka Park restaurant, an old watermill where you can play with and tickle the fish before eating them! There are no direct dolmuses to Tlos from Fethiye. If you dont want to take an organised tour, dont want to hire scooters or a car, you could take the dolmus towards Saklikent, ask the driver where to get off, and trek the last 4km up hill.
PINARA
Pinara means something round in ancient Lycian language, probably because of the shape of the original, upper acropolis. It was one of the larger Lycian cities but is now not particularly one of Turkey most impressive ancient ruins. However the isolated setting makes it a worthwhile trip. The tombs are the most interesting feature of the ruins with the Royal tomb, unique for its detailed carvings, containing a single persona tomb, probably of Royal blood. There is a house tomb with a roof, in the form of a gothic arch at which point is a pair of stone ox horns, thought to ward off evil spirits, an agora (market place), a temple, an odeon, a church with tower and a theatre. Infrequent dolmuses will drop you at the start of the Pinara road from where it is a 6 km walk to the site, or bargain with the driver to take you all the way.
PATARA
PATARA beach
This area is the birthplace of Saint Nicolas, later known as Santa Claus (see entry for Myra), was the principal Lycian port which now lies in ruins on the stunning white sand beach. The entrance to the city is 2km from the village of Gelemis through an almost intact Roman gateway. The many individual ruins include baths, a basilica, a second century temple, an acropolis, a granary, more Lycian tombs and a theatre, half covered by the wind-driven sand. The beach, also a turtle nesting ground at night is nearly 22km long, so take advantage of the beach dolmus! It is a popular destination for all beach sports. The nearby village has many pensions and several restaurants. Dolmuses run frequently from Fethiye (1or 2 hours) in the summer and larger buses en route to Antalya stop here. They usually stop on the main road, 4km from Gelemis.
LETOON
LETOON Hellonistic theatre
The Letoon is the shrine of the goddess Leto, who according to legend was loved by Zeus. Unimpressed, Zeus wife Hera commanded that Leto spend an eternity wandering around from country to country. She spent much of this time in Lycia becoming the Lycian national deity. The federation of Lycian cities then built this impressive religious sanctuary to worship her, it was the official religious sanctuary of the Lycian federation where national festivals were celebrated. The sanctuary became a centre of Christian worship and a church was consecrated here. It was not until the Arab raids in the seventh century that the site was eventually abandoned. The remains were discovered in 1840 and excavated in 1962. The site contains ruins of 3 temples side by side - Apollo (left), Artemis (middle) and Leto (right). Apollos temple has a good mosaic floor showing a lyre and a bow and arrow. The nymphaeum is permanently flooded and inhabited by frogs which is appropriate, as worship to Leto was somehow associated with water. There is also a large Hellonistic theatre which is well preserved and a number of interesting inscriptions. One of the inscriptions states the conditions of entry to the sanctuary, including a strict dress code which stated that the clothing must be simple, with rich jewelry and elaborate hairstyles forbidden.
XANTHOS
XANTHOS
The hilltop city is perhaps the most fascinating Lycian ruin with breathtaking views of the Xanthos River. Unfortunately when it was discovered, many of the monuments were shipped to the British Museum in London in 1842 when the traveller Charles Fellows visited it. Many of the inscriptions and decorations at the site are copies of the originals. The city dates back to possibly 540 BC and during Lycian times, it was the capital and grandest city, although during its period it has suffered a chequered history of wars and destruction including two major holocausts when the cities inhabitants destroyed themselves and their city in defence.
The most important construction is the 4th century Nereid Monument, a beautiful decorated Ionic temple on a high podium which is sadly now in London and marked with a plaque at Xanthos, however there is still enough left to make it a well-worth visit.
Still standing are the Arch of Vespasian and adjoining Hellanistic gateway bearing an inscription recording that Antiochas the Great dedicated the city to Leto, Apollo and Artemis, the national deities of Lycia. The Xanthian Obelisk is the remains of another pillar tomb labeled as the Inscribed Pillar and covered on all sides by the longest known Lycian inscription which runs to 250 lines and includes 12 lines of Greek verse.
The spectacular Roman theatre, built on the site of an earlier Greek structure is almost complete and lies next to the Lycian acropolis - the remains of a square building believed to have been an early palace. There are residential sections from the Hellanistic, Roman and Byzantine eras. There is also a Byzantine basilica, Roman acropolis, freestanding sarcophagi and a Byzantine monastery containing an open courtyard with wash basins along one side and more Lycian tombs across the road from the main site. Dolmuses will take you as far as Kinik (en route to Patara) and from here it is less than 2 km to the Letoon turn off from where it is a 20 minute uphill walk.
KEKOVA (SUNKEN CITY)
The area known as Kekova contains the central village Ücagız on the mainland. It is a small fishing/farming village that remains relatively unspoilt. It still retains some old Turkish charm with old white houses and cows and chickens wandering freely around the streets. The surrounding area also features many ruins at Teimiussa, Simena, Kale, Aperlae and Kyaneai on the mainland. Kekova Island is also known as Batik Sehir Sunken City. It is the site of an ancient unidentified city destroyed when an earthquake which disturbed the land, causing some of the ancient houses to sink under the clear water, creating a sunken city. There are remains of stairs, pavements, house walls and a long quay. As snorkeling and diving are forbidden over the ruins, the only way to see them, is to take a trip from either Kas or Kekova. You have a choice of a glass bottom boat or using just a mask over the side of a smaller boat. Kekova has the only beach in the area, and the old charm of the village makes it a memorable place to stay. There are several restaurants and pensions clustered around the port and there are excellent trekking possibilities around the island. On top of the island is a castle (ancient Simena) - a good place to climb for the excellent views of the bay.
DEMRE
The town is not of great importance, but from here it is a 2km walk to the remains of the ancient city of Myra. Myra was one of the most prominent members of the Lycian federation and retained its importance throughout the middle ages, because of its association with the bishop Saint Nicholas (Santa Claus). St Paul also stopped here on his voyage to Rome. The city name by tradition is said to be derived from the Greek word for myrrh, the gum resin used in production of incense. It dates back to 42 BC and became the capital of Lycia in 5th century. Despite the city long history as a religious, commercial and administrative town, Arab raids in 7th century and silting of the harbour led to its decline. Much of the city remains still buried. Visible is the well preserved Roman theatre (rebuilt in 141 AD), striking honeycomb of Lycian tombs, which you can view closer by climbing the ladders. The tombs are said to resemble Lycian houses with wooden beams. The river necropolis tombs including the painted tomb featuring a reclining bearded man and his family.You can take a boat trip from Demre around the sunken city of Kekova.
Andriake is 2 km beyond Demre and 5 km from Myra. The main reason to come here is for the beach and the beauty of the skyline. The ancient Adriake was the site of Hadrian granary used to store locally grown grain and was vital to the whole roman world since its contents were sent to Rome to be distributed around the Empire.
Myra most famous citizen was Saint Nicholas , born at Patara in 300 AD. As well as being Saint Nicholas - Santa Claus, he is the patron saint of sailors, virgins, children, merchants, scholars, pawnbrokers and Holy Russia and was the Bishop of Myra. He is identified in the Christian world as a kind old present giver, arising from a story of his kindness to the 3 daughters of a poor man who were left without a dowry. He is said to have thrown 3 purses of gold into the house one night enabling them to find husbands instead of selling themselves into prostitution. He was buried in the church at Demre which is now dedicated to him but is believed that in 1087, his bones were carried off to Italy by a group of devout raiders from Bari. They missed a few bones which can now be seen in the museum in Antalya. The church become a popular place of pilgrimage when visitors to his tomb made claims of miraculous events and a monastery was built nearby in the 11th century so even after the removal of the bones, pilgrimages still visited. The modern day church bears little resemblance to the 3rd century original having been rebuilt gradually over the centuries, but it is still worth a visit with the original mosaic floor panels and a rare typical Byzantine synthronon (bishops throne). The original tomb is said to be buried under the church, but the sarcophagus on display is worth looking at.
